Feeding Your Horse Through Autumn and Winter: A Simple UK Owner's Guide

As autumn arrives, grass growth slows and its nutritional value becomes less predictable. Colder weather, shorter turnout hours and wetter ground can also change how much forage your horse eats.

A sensible autumn and winter horse feeding plan does not need to be complicated. Start with good-quality forage, monitor your horse regularly and make gradual changes when extra feed is needed.

At Riker’s Pet Food, we’re an independent, family-run business near Ringwood. Alongside our raw and natural pet food, we stock selected horse feed, forage, hard feed, balancers and supplements for local horse owners.

🚚 Free local delivery with no minimum order to Ringwood, Fordingbridge, Verwood, Alderholt and Three Legged Cross.

Start with forage

Forage should be the foundation of almost every horse’s diet. This includes grass, hay, haylage, chaff and suitable high-fibre feeds.

Horses are designed to eat little and often. Fibre supports normal gut function, encourages chewing and helps produce saliva. The process of digesting fibre also creates heat, which is useful during colder weather.

As grass becomes shorter, wetter or less nutritious, your horse may need more hay or haylage to maintain a steady supply of fibre.

A general starting guide is:

• Around 1.5% of bodyweight per day as a minimum forage intake
• Around 2–2.5% of bodyweight per day for many horses, depending on condition and workload
• A 500kg horse eating at 2% would receive approximately 10kg of forage dry matter per day

This is a guide rather than a fixed prescription. The amount should include the grass, hay, haylage and other fibre feeds your horse eats.

A horse that is losing condition may need more, while an overweight good-doer may need lower-calorie forage. Do not reduce forage below 1.5% of bodyweight without veterinary guidance.

How to judge hay and haylage quality

The quality of your forage matters as much as the amount. Before feeding a bale, check that it is:

• Clean and dry
• Free from visible mould
• Free from dust, soil and unwanted plants
• Pleasant-smelling, rather than musty or sour
• A suitable colour for the type of forage
• Stored away from rain, damp and contamination

Hay should not feel hot inside the bale. Haylage should be well sealed before opening, with no damaged plastic or signs of spoilage.

Haylage generally contains more moisture than hay. This means you may need to feed more of it by weight to provide the same amount of dry matter. Follow the product guidance where available, and ask your feed supplier or nutritionist if you are unsure.

A forage analysis can be useful, especially if your horse is overweight, prone to laminitis or has equine metabolic syndrome. It can show the sugar, starch, protein and energy content more accurately than appearance alone.

If you need to reduce the sugar content of hay, soaking may help. However, soaking times and results vary, and soaked hay needs to be handled hygienically. Ask your vet or an equine nutritionist for advice if your horse has a specific health condition.

Forage changes should be made gradually over approximately 10–14 days. This includes changing from one hay source to another or moving from hay to haylage.

Adjust hard feed as grass quality drops

Some horses maintain their weight on forage alone through winter. Others need additional calories because of age, workload, poor teeth, cold conditions or difficulty holding condition.

It is usually better to increase forage first. If your horse is eating enough good-quality forage but still losing weight, hard feed may be appropriate.

Depending on the horse, this could include:

• A fibre-based cube or mash
• Chaff or chopped fibre
• Unmolassed sugar beet
• A conditioning feed
• An appropriate balancer
• Oil or a supplement recommended for the individual horse

Fibre-based feeds are often a sensible choice for leisure horses because they provide calories without relying heavily on cereal starch. Horses in harder work may have different requirements.

Feed according to bodyweight and workload, not simply by eye. Weighing the feed with scales is more accurate than using an unmarked scoop.

Make changes slowly. Introduce a new feed over at least 7–10 days, and ideally 10–14 days when changing a large part of the ration. Split hard feed into small meals where possible, and avoid giving large bucket feeds.

Our horse feed range includes products from brands such as Hi-Fi Light, Bailey’s, Allen & Page, Dengie, Dodson & Horrell, Thunderbrooks, TopSpec, Pure Horse Feed Company and Mollichaff.

Monitor condition, weight and rugs

A horse’s body condition can change gradually during autumn, so regular checks are important.

Use a combination of:

• Body condition or fat scoring
• A weigh tape
• Photographs taken from the same angle
• Hands-on checks over the ribs, neck, shoulder and hindquarters
• Your horse’s workload and general behaviour

A weigh tape is not a substitute for a weighbridge, but it can help identify trends. For example, a steady reduction over several weeks may show that your horse needs more forage or a veterinary check.

Rugging can also affect feeding needs. A horse using extra energy to keep warm may need more forage, particularly if it is clipped, elderly, underweight or exposed to cold rain and wind. However, a thick rug should not be used to hide weight loss or replace adequate nutrition.

Check beneath the rug regularly. A horse should not be sweating, shivering or losing condition unnoticed.

Supporting veterans and good-doers

Older horses may struggle to chew long-stem hay because of worn or missing teeth. If an older horse drops partially chewed forage, loses weight or develops quidding, arrange a dental check.

A soaked fibre mash or forage-replacement feed may help when chewing hay becomes difficult. These feeds should be introduced carefully and selected according to the horse’s wider nutritional needs.

At the other end of the scale, good-doers may gain weight even when grass quality appears to be falling. For these horses, consider:

• Lower-calorie, later-cut hay
• Tested forage where possible
• Soaked hay when appropriate
• Slow-feeder haynets
• Controlled grazing
• A low-calorie balancer for vitamins and minerals

The aim is to provide enough fibre and eating time without adding unnecessary calories. Horses still need regular access to forage, even when weight control is required.

Keep water available in cold weather

Water is easy to overlook during winter, particularly when the temperature drops. A frozen trough or empty bucket can reduce drinking and increase the risk of dehydration and digestive problems.

Check water at least twice daily during freezing weather. Break and remove ice rather than assuming it will melt quickly. Make sure troughs and buckets are clean, accessible and free from contamination.

Some horses drink less when water is very cold. Offering water that is not icy cold may encourage better intake, where practical.

Soaked feeds can also contribute to daily fluid intake, but they must not replace a constant supply of clean drinking water.

A plain salt lick can help provide access to salt. Riker’s stocks KM Elite Himalayan salt licks, with different sizes available. A salt lick should be offered sensibly and should not be treated as a substitute for fresh water or a balanced diet.

Horses in regular work or those sweating may need a suitable electrolyte plan. Seek advice from your vet or nutritionist before adding several supplements together.

Common winter feeding mistakes

A few simple mistakes can cause problems during the colder months:

Changing feed too quickly

Moving suddenly from grass to haylage, or adding a new hard feed overnight, can upset the digestive system. Make changes gradually.

Guessing forage amounts

A large-looking haynet may contain less than expected. Weigh hay and haylage periodically so you know what your horse is actually receiving.

Relying on hard feed before checking forage

Extra concentrates may not be needed if your horse simply needs more suitable forage.

Forgetting water during a freeze

Check every trough and bucket. A horse cannot drink from a frozen supply.

Adding several supplements at once

This can make it difficult to identify what is helping and may provide unnecessary or overlapping nutrients. Use supplements for a clear reason and check the total diet.

Ignoring small changes in condition

A winter coat can make weight loss difficult to see. Use your hands, a weigh tape and regular photographs.

Feeding by scoop size

Different feeds have different weights. Follow the manufacturer’s feeding guide and weigh the feed rather than relying on volume alone.

Our horse feed delivery service

We stock selected horse feed and related supplies for local customers, alongside our wider range of natural pet food, animal feed and pet essentials.

Our local delivery service is free with no minimum order to:

• Ringwood
• Fordingbridge
• Verwood
• Alderholt
• Three Legged Cross

We also offer free 48-hour delivery on orders over £54.99 across England and Wales. This service excludes horse and farm feeds, so horse feed delivery charges and availability should be checked at checkout.

You can browse the horse feed collections online or contact us if you need help finding a suitable starting point.

Frequently asked questions

How much hay should I feed my horse in winter?

A common starting point is 1.5–2.5% of bodyweight per day as forage dry matter. A 500kg horse may need around 7.5kg as a minimum and approximately 10–12.5kg for a typical 2–2.5% intake. Include grass and other forage, and adjust for condition, workload and veterinary advice.

Is hay or haylage better for winter?

Both can be suitable. Haylage is usually wetter and may be more energy-dense, while hay varies depending on when and how it was cut. The best option depends on your horse’s condition, workload, dental health and any sugar or starch restrictions.

Should I increase hard feed when the grass stops growing?

Not automatically. Check your horse’s condition and forage intake first. Increase forage or choose a suitable fibre feed before adding more concentrated calories.

How can I help my horse keep weight on?

Provide enough good-quality forage, check teeth, monitor body condition and introduce a suitable fibre-based feed if necessary. If weight continues to fall, speak to your vet to rule out dental, digestive or other health problems.

What should I do if my horse is gaining weight?

Review the calorie content and amount of forage, use a weigh tape and consider tested or lower-calorie forage. Slow feeders and controlled grazing can help extend eating time. Do not restrict forage excessively without professional advice.

How often should I check my horse’s water in winter?

Check at least twice daily during freezing weather, and more often if the trough is known to freeze or become contaminated. Water should remain clean, accessible and available at all times.

Can I feed supplements with a balancer?

Some supplements may overlap with the vitamins and minerals already supplied by a balancer. Check the labels and ask your vet, nutritionist or feed supplier before combining products.

This guide is general information, not a replacement for veterinary or qualified equine nutrition advice. Horses with laminitis, EMS, PPID, dental problems, gastric ulcers or unexplained weight changes need an individual feeding plan.